1940's Fashion Trends

While rationing may have been in full swing by 1942, Vogue explained that women (and men) should not swear off fashion for the duration of the war. Doing so would be, well, un-patriotic.

Many a woman with the best intention in the world thinks that she is doing her bit, making a noble sacrifice, by refusing to buy any new clothes during the duration. But so complex is our economic life that this very act of self-denial may work injury to the delicately adjusted gears which must continue to mesh if that great machine is to cotinue to function, if that great machine is to swing into the mightiest armaments production efforts of all time. Arms and munitions, boats and planes are made by works, who are paid in the money that comes from defense bonds and taxes. A sizable part of these taxes comes from the clothing industry - the second largest industry in our country. The makers of fashionable shoes and hats, gloves and bags, of dresses and coats and suits - all these makers are operating with full government approval. Whatever is on sale in a shop is there to be bought with the Government's full permission. Refusal to buy only helps to dislocate the public economy.

So even with the challenges imposed by shortages in rayon, nylon, wool, leather, rubber, metal (for snaps, buckles, and embellishments) and even the amount of fabric which could be used in any one garment, the fashion industries wheels kept chugging slowly along, producing what it could. After the fall of France in 1940, Hollywood drove fashion in the United States almost entirely, with the exception of a few trends coming from war torn London in 1944 and 1945, as America's own rationing hit full force, and the idea of fuction seemed to overtake fashion, if only for a few short months until the end of the war. Fabrics shifted dramatically as rationing and wartime shortages controlled import items such as silk and furs. Floral prints seem to dominate the early 1940's, with the mid to late 40's also seeing what is sometimes refered to as "atomic prints" or geometric patterns and shapes. The color of fashion seemed to even go to war, with patriotic nautical themes and dark greens and khakis dominating the color palates, as trousers and wedges slowly replaced the dresses and more traditional heals due to shortages in stockings and gasoline.

Here are some common terms that you may find when shopping for vintage fashions or browsing through old catalogs. Note that the sizing scale has chaged since WWII - a vintage 12 is much smaller than a modern 12.

Babushka - a scarf or hankerchief worn over the hair, appeared around 1938, as part of the peasant look.

Bakelite - a popular plastic used to make jewlery, buttons, knobs and other household items

Bermuda shorts - long men's shorts, popular during warm weather months

Bobby socks (sox) - white ankle socks, worn by young girls and teenagers, typically with saddle shoes, starting in the early-mid 40's.

Cloche - a close fitting, bell-shapped hat worn pulled down over one's forehead. Typically associated with the bobbed hair of the 1920's and 30's.

Dirndle - a skrit with a gathered waistline, part of the peasant look of the late 1930's.

Chemise - a slip like dress, also used to refer to a slip.

Jodphers - riding pants, designed to wear boots. Often worn for weekend or work wear. British Land Army uniforms, and early U.S. uniforms both have jodphers.

Juliet - a women's hairstyle in which the crown is smooth and the hair is curled into a fluff just below the ears. Based on Norma Shearer's hairstyle in the movie Juliet.

Knickerbockers - short knee length pants, also known as knickers that were typically worn by golfers, baseball players, and young boys. This style pant was phasing out of fashion for everyone except baseball players by the 1940's, although still pictured in the sears catalog for young boys.

Peplum - gathered fabric or extra fabric that hangs below the waist line.

Saddle Shoes - originally designed as athletic shoes, often worn by teenage girls. Sears catalog shows them with worn with both socks and stockings, and with either a red or white sole. Note, period examples seem to usually have a heel. www.cj.

Sloppy Joe Sweater - long, baggy pullover sweater, commonly worn with blue jeans. Typically worn by teenage girls in highschool or college.

Snood - a crocheted or knitted sack that's worn over and around one's hair, usually pinned on the lower part of one's head. Sometimes it's pinned to a hat, or other head piece, and sometimes it's worn as evening wear in the absence of a headpiece.

Spectators - two toned shoes for men or women, usually in either pump, wedge or oxford form.

Swing Skirt - a full, round cut, or flared skirt that was designed to "swing out" when jitterbugging. Often worn with the sloppy joe sweater. Mid-late 1940's.

Zoot Suit - a men's suit, with tapered, tight cuffed pants, and a long coat with wide lapels. Often topped with a wide brimmed fedora. Often pinstriped and can be found in many colors. Originated in New York, and are often associated with young men who were unable to serve in WWII because they were 4F.